Hill Country Named Best Barbecue in D.C.
For the past three months, while interrogating countless plates of barbecue as if they were suspects to a crime, I repeated one question over and over: Where’s the smoke?
Too many meats had only the faintest whiff, detectable perhaps to beagles, but not to bipeds with the sad olfactory skills that come standard with the human species. If you ask 100 adults how to define barbecue, you’ll probably get 100 different answers. But to me, the cuisine’s defining characteristic is the complex aromatic byproduct of burning hardwoods.